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Heating

Advice on boilers, radiators, central heating systems and keeping your home warm and energy efficient.

Heating

Wood Burning: Woods to Avoid

As the weather gets gloomier, those lucky enough to have a log fire or woodburning stove might be tempted to enjoy their first fire of the season. With prices soaring, it may be tempting to use reclaimed wood at home. This isn’t always a good idea: here’s what you need to know about which woods not to burn.

As the weather gets gloomier, those lucky enough to have a log fire or woodburning stove might be tempted to enjoy their first fire of the season. With prices soaring, it may be tempting to use reclaimed wood at home. This isn’t always a good idea: here’s what you need to know about which woods not to burn.

Treated wood

Think twice before you burn old beams or fence panels! Wood that has been used for anything other than burning has normally been treated to help it to last longer. Depending on when the wood was first used and where and how it was used, some treated wood may be dangerous to burn. CCA (chromated copper arsenic) was used to make wood rot resistant from the 1930s up to the 2000s. As the name might suggest, CCA contains toxic substances and when wood treated with it is burnt, it releases arsenic and chromium into the atmosphere.

It is not just old wood that you need to worry about. Most wood has been treated in some way to preserve it, and when burnt it can cause a build-up of flammable sediment in your chimney and/ or produce toxic fumes. Wood pallets are one example of wood that is tempting to use but should never be burnt.

Manufactured wood

It can be tempting to treat it the same as natural wood right down to burning it. However, no matter how high quality manufactured wood such as plywood or particleboard is, you can guarantee that it contains more than just wood. There is a chance that the wood glue in your manufactured wood contains cancer-causing formaldehyde, which will be released when burnt.

Green wood or wet wood

Tempting as it may be to live your best self-sufficient life, using wood that has been freshly chopped in your garden or grabbing a load of logs on social media, it isn’t a great idea for your health, or your chimney. “Green” wood is wood that still contains sap, meaning that it still contains a high amount of moisture. This wood can take longer to burn and will cause creosote to build up in your chimney: one of the main causes of chimney fires.

This includes Christmas trees! If you are determined to burn your Christmas tree, store it for a year and burn it next Christmas.

Driftwood

Even dry driftwood isn’t OK to burn. This is because driftwood has been soaked in salt water, meaning that it is full of chloride. When this chloride is burnt, it releases dioxide, which is poisonous.

If you haven’t yet had your chimney swept, this is your annual reminder from Trust A Trader to contact your local chimney sweep and make sure that your fire is safe and ready for a winter of keeping you warm. For more tips, follow us on Facebook or X.

Looking for more heating advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common heating questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • What is the difference between a combi boiler and a system boiler?

    A combi heats water straight from the mains on demand - no cylinder needed, which makes it compact and ideal for smaller homes or flats. A system boiler works with a hot water cylinder, storing a ready supply that can serve multiple taps or showers at once without the pressure dropping - better for larger homes with more bathrooms. There's also the conventional boiler, which needs both a cylinder and a cold water tank in the loft - common in older properties. A heating engineer can help you figure out which suits your home best.

  • Is an air source heat pump right for my home?

    Heat pumps pull warmth from the outside air (even when it's cold) and use it to heat your home and hot water. They work best in well-insulated homes, ideally with underfloor heating or larger radiators that work well at lower temperatures. In draughty or poorly insulated properties, the benefits are more limited. The Boiler Upgrade Scheme currently offers a grant of up to £7,500 towards installation, so it's worth getting a professional assessment to see whether your home is a good fit before committing.

  • How often should a boiler be serviced?

    Once a year, by a Gas Safe registered engineer. It keeps the boiler running safely, catches small issues before they become expensive, and is usually a condition of the manufacturer's warranty. Some home insurance policies require proof of regular servicing too. If you're not sure when yours was last done, book one before winter - better to find out before you're sitting in a cold house!

  • Why is my radiator cold at the top but warm at the bottom?

    This issue is almost always trapped air. Bleeding the radiator - using a radiator key to release the air - usually sorts it, and it's one of the few heating jobs you can safely do yourself. If bleeding it doesn't work, or if several radiators are having the same problem, it might be a pressure or pump issue. Worth getting a heating engineer in to have a look.

  • What are the signs my boiler needs replacing?

    Keep an eye out for: frequent breakdowns, energy bills going up without using more heat, unusual noises (banging, kettling, or whistling), a flame that's yellow or orange instead of blue, and any visible leaks or rust around the unit. If your boiler is over fifteen years old and ticking any of those boxes, replacing it is usually the more economical choice - modern boilers are significantly more efficient.

  • Is underfloor heating worth it and do I need a professional to install it?

    For a new build or a big renovation, underfloor heating is often a great investment - it heats rooms more evenly than radiators and can be more efficient, especially alongside a heat pump. Retrofitting in an existing home is more of a job, and how worthwhile it is depends on your floor types and how much disruption you're happy to deal with. Either way - wet or electric - it has to be installed by a qualified professional.

  • Why does my boiler keep losing pressure?

    Some pressure drop over time is normal, but if you're topping it up regularly there's usually a cause: a small leak in the system (which isn't always easy to spot), a pressure relief valve that's releasing water, or air in the system after bleeding radiators. Topping it up via the filling loop is fine as a short-term fix, but if you're doing it more than a couple of times a year, it's worth getting an engineer to look into why it keeps happening.

Have a question about TrustATrader?

If you have a question in relation to TrustATrader specifically, please check out the TrustATrader FAQs, with separate lists tailored to consumers and tradespeople. Alternatively, get in touch with our team. We're happy to help!