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Landscaping & Gardening

Top tips on all things garden design, including fencing, lawn care, planting and outdoor improvements.

Landscaping & Gardening

What to Plant in November: Crops, Bulbs, and Plants for Late-Autumn Success

November might feel like the quiet season in the garden: temperatures drop, daylight shortens, and many plants begin to die back, but there’s still plenty you can plant to set yourself up for a colourful spring and a productive growing season next year. Whether you’re nurturing a vegetable patch, planning a vibrant flower display, or simply keeping your garden active through winter, November offers more opportunities than you might think.

November might feel like the quiet season in the garden: temperatures drop, daylight shortens, and many plants begin to die back, but there’s still plenty you can plant to set yourself up for a colourful spring and a productive growing season next year. Whether you’re nurturing a vegetable patch, planning a vibrant flower display, or simply keeping your garden active through winter, November offers more opportunities than you might think.

Spring-flowering bulbs

November is one of the last chances to plant many classic spring bulbs. The soil is still workable, and cooler temperatures help bulbs root without rotting.

Tulips thrive if planted in November. Planting into cold soil helps prevent fungal infections like tulip fire. Plant them deep (at least three times the bulb’s height) in well-draining soil.

If you haven’t planted daffodils yet, there’s still time early in the month. These hardy bulbs will pop up reliably each spring.

Perfect for borders, pots, and naturalising in grass, crocuses & hyacinths are easy to plant and brighten early spring with vibrant colour.

Winter vegetables

November is a great month to strengthen your winter veg garden or prepare for an early harvest next year.

Plant individual garlic cloves now, pointy end up. Winter-planted garlic produces stronger, larger bulbs.

Autumn-planting varieties of onions and shallots overwinter well and are ready by early summer.

Hardy broad bean varieties like ‘Aquadulce Claudia’ survive frost and give earlier crops than spring sowings.

Winter lettuce varieties such as ‘Arctic King’ or ‘Winter Gem’ can be grown under cloches or cold frames for fresh salads even in colder months.

Perennials and Shrubs

Perennials and shrubs add structure and year-round interest to the garden. Cooler weather reduces transplant shock, making November ideal for planting hardy perennials and shrubs.

  • Lavender
  • Hellebores
  • Evergreen shrubs like holly or camellia
  • Herbs such as rosemary, sage, and thyme (all frost-tolerant)

Planters and containers

If your soil is too wet or you’re short on space, November is perfect for refreshing pots with winter favourites:

  • Violas & pansies for colour through winter
  • Cyclamen for shaded spots
  • Heathers and small conifers for texture
  • Winter bedding plants to cheer up patios and doorways

Wildflowers and lawn care

Some wildflower mixes benefit from natural winter stratification. Sowing them now helps them germinate naturally in spring.

You can also:

  • Lay turf while the ground is still warm enough
  • Reseed bare patches
  • Protect your lawn by removing leaves and aerating

Final tips

  • Mulch well to protect roots from frost.
  • Improve drainage in soggy areas as roots rot easily in winter.
  • Use fleece or cloches for young or tender plants.
  • Keep an eye on slugs and snails, which remain active in mild spells.

Planting in November isn’t just possible, it’s highly productive. With the right choices, you can bring vibrant spring flowers, early crops, and stronger garden growth next year. A little effort now sets you up beautifully for the seasons ahead. If you’re not sure about what you need to plant, and when, consult a local gardener. For more tips, follow us on Trust a Trader on Facebook or X.

Looking for more landscaping & gardening advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common landscaping & gardening questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • Do I need a professional to design and landscape my garden?

    For simple stuff - planting, basic lawn care, a few raised beds - you can often manage it yourself. For anything involving hard landscaping, drainage, retaining walls, or changing ground levels, get a professional involved.

    Badly built retaining walls and poor drainage cause expensive problems. A landscaper will also know which materials will actually work for your soil and conditions.

  • What is the difference between a landscaper and a gardener?

    A gardener looks after your garden on an ongoing basis - mowing, pruning, planting, general upkeep. A landscaper creates the garden in the first place - patios, paths, fencing, decking, drainage, planting schemes, the whole structure. Some people do both, but they're distinct skill sets.

    If you want the garden transformed rather than maintained, a landscaper is who you need.

  • How do I get rid of an overgrown garden?

    It's often more work than it looks. Beyond cutting things back, there may be significant root systems to clear, possibly invasive species to deal with (Japanese knotweed needs specialist handling), and ground prep before any replanting can happen.

    For anything seriously overgrown, professional clearance is going to be faster, more thorough, and safer than tackling it yourself.

  • What time of year is best for garden landscaping work?

    Hard landscaping - patios, paths, decking, fencing - can happen most of the year, though very wet or frozen ground causes delays. Planting is best in spring or autumn when things establish more easily.

    If you're planning something big, book a landscaper in late winter for spring work - good ones fill up fast once the season gets going.

  • What should I do if I have Japanese knotweed in my garden?

    Take it seriously. It can damage buildings and hard surfaces, and some mortgage lenders won't lend on properties where it's present and unmanaged. You're not legally required to remove it as long as it stays within your boundary, but you are responsible for stopping it from spreading to neighbouring land.

    It needs specialist treatment - either chemical treatment over multiple growing seasons, or excavation and licensed disposal. Don't compost it or put it in your general garden waste.

  • What are the benefits of artificial grass?

    The obvious one: no mowing. It stays looking decent all year and doesn't turn to mud in winter, which is a real plus for households with kids or dogs. Modern artificial grass is much more realistic than it used to be and holds its colour well. Worth knowing though: it gets noticeably hot in direct sun, needs occasional brushing, and is made from plastic that can't currently be recycled at end of life.

    It's a great fit for a low-maintenance, practical space - less so if the environmental benefits of a real lawn matter to you.

  • How can I make my garden low-maintenance?

    Cut down the amount of lawn first - it needs more regular attention than almost anything else. Swapping sections for hard landscaping or planted beds with ground-cover plants makes a real difference.

    Pick plants that suit your soil and aspect - ones that are happy where they are will largely look after themselves once established.

    A thick bark mulch layer keeps weeds down and holds moisture. A drip irrigation system on a timer removes another regular task. A good landscaper can design a scheme specifically around low maintenance rather than just what looks attractive.

  • Do I need planning permission for decking, a pergola, or a garden room?

    Decking is usually fine under Permitted Development as long as it's no more than 30cm above ground and doesn't cover more than half the garden. Open pergolas are generally okay - but start enclosing them with a roof and sides and they get treated differently.

    Garden rooms are classed as outbuildings: permitted if single-storey, within size limits, not used as living accommodation, and set back properly from boundaries. Listed buildings are a different matter - any structure nearby needs listed building consent. If you're not sure, a quick inquiry to your local planning authority will give you a clear answer before you spend anything.

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