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Carpentry & Joinery

Tips and advice on bespoke woodwork, fitted furniture, doors, staircases and interior joinery.

Carpentry & Joinery

Top Tips On: Working With Wood - Part 2

There is no doubt that wood embellishments can make all the difference to a house’s interior and exterior. But just as well-finished woodwork adds to a property, not much says “neglected” like a peeling front door. Previously we looked at stripping wood. Here we talk about covering old paint, and filling wood for a good finish.

There is no doubt that wood embellishments can make all the difference to a house’s interior and exterior. But just as well-finished woodwork adds to a property, not much says “neglected” like a peeling front door. Previously we looked at stripping wood. Here we talk about covering old paint, and filling wood for a good finish.

Covering Old Paint

There are some instances when you won’t be able to strip existing paint. If your wood is too rough, the paint is ingrained into the wood, or the wood has been stained at some point, painting over the old paint is probably your best option. The key is to make sure that the paint is smooth. If there are lots of chips and the paint is peeling, your best option is to strip off as much paint as you can. Once the majority of the paint has been removed, sand down the surface get it as smooth as possible. If the old paint is in good condition, lightly sand the surface to help the new paint to adhere well, before sanding down and applying a coat of primer, followed by your chosen colour.

Painting Natural Beams

Natural wood, such as beams, can be challenging because the wood is often uneven and flaky. Trying to sand or fill uneven edges can result in crumbling. One option for preparing wooden beams is to apply a layer of clear, matt varnish. Cover the surface of the beam, overlapping slightly onto the adjoining ceiling or wall. This will seal the wood, allowing you to paint as normal.

Priming And Filling

Rather than filling your wood before priming and painting, it can help to prime first, then fill and, finally, paint. This is because primer provides a better surface than natural wood for paint as well as filler to adhere to. What’s more, priming your wood first helps you to see the areas that need filling more easily. Before you start, make sure that knots are coated with knotting solution to prevent them from showing through. Apply your primer evenly and allow to dry. Once the primer has dried, it will be easier to see holes and dents that need to be filled using a filling knife and wood filler. Allow your filler to dry completely before sanding over the surface for a smooth finish. If the holes or dents were particularly deep, you may need to refill and sand again.

Once you have finished filling and sanding, use a clean cloth or vacuum cleaner to get rid of the dust, before painting as normal.

This extra attention to detail and prep work will help you to achieve a professional finish that will stand the test of time, protecting your woodwork from the elements while looking great!

Looking for more DIY tips? Follow us on Facebook or Twitter. If you would prefer to get the job done professionally by a trusted local decorator, check out our directory for tradespeople in your area.

Looking for more carpentry & joinery advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common carpentry & joinery questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • What types of carpentry work should never be attempted as a DIY project?

    Anything structural - staircases, roof timbers, load-bearing walls, lintels. And anything that needs to meet Building Regulations, like fire doors or stair balustrading.

    Getting structural carpentry wrong isn't just a cosmetic problem - it can affect how safe your home is. Worth paying for a professional who knows what they're doing.

  • Can a carpenter fix a door that won't close properly?

    Yes, and it's a very common call-out. Doors that stick, drop, or won't latch are usually down to one of three things: swelling from moisture, hinges that have worked loose, or the frame moving slightly as the building settles.

    Most of the time it's a straightforward fix. If several doors in the house are playing up at once, it might point to something structural - worth flagging when you get someone in.

  • Do I need a professional to install a staircase or banister?

    Yes. Staircase and banister installation has to meet Part K of the Building Regulations - covering handrail height, baluster spacing, and stair pitch.

    A badly installed staircase or banister is a real safety risk. A qualified carpenter or joiner will make sure it's both structurally sound and compliant.

  • How do I know if a wooden window frame needs repairing or replacing?

    Repair is usually still an option if the frame is structurally sound (no soft or spongy patches when you press it), the rot is only on the surface or in a small section, and the joints are still tight. Surface rot can often be cut back, hardened, and filled with epoxy filler - a good carpenter can make it look like new.

    If the rot goes deep, the frame is badly warped, or the joints have failed, replacement is the more cost-effective route.

  • What causes wooden floors or staircases to creak and can it be fixed?

    Creaks come from movement - boards or treads rubbing against each other, against fixings, or against the structure beneath them as they flex underfoot. It often happens as boards expand or contract with changes in humidity.

    In many cases, screwing things down more firmly or applying a lubricant between moving parts sorts it. If the creak covers a wide area or keeps coming back, a carpenter should take a proper look.

  • What are the benefits of bespoke fitted furniture over flat-pack?

    The main one is fit. Bespoke is built exactly to your space - and in older UK homes especially, that matters. Sloping ceilings, alcoves, chimney breasts, walls that aren't quite square - flat-pack units run into all of these and often end up with awkward filler panels and gaps.

    Bespoke joinery is also generally more solidly built and lasts longer. It costs more and takes longer, but for fitted storage in a room with character, it's usually the right investment.

  • Can a carpenter repair rotting timber or structural woodwork?

    Yes - it's a core part of the job. Surface rot can often be cut back, treated, and filled with epoxy filler that can be shaped, sanded, and painted to match the surrounding wood. Deeper rot in structural timber - joists, window sills, roof timbers - usually means partial or full replacement of that section.

    The important thing is also fixing whatever caused the moisture problem in the first place. Repairing the wood without sorting the damp is just delaying the same issue.

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If you have a question in relation to TrustATrader specifically, please check out the TrustATrader FAQs, with separate lists tailored to consumers and tradespeople. Alternatively, get in touch with our team. We're happy to help!