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Carpentry & Joinery

Tips and advice on bespoke woodwork, fitted furniture, doors, staircases and interior joinery.

Carpentry & Joinery

Top Tips On: Working With Wood

When the days are warmer and dryer it's the perfect time to tackle unsightly exterior window frames and doors. Woodwork is often overlooked when undertaking home DIY projects, but it is the wood that provides the finishing touches to your home. Flaking, chipped or poorly painted wood can contribute to a general feeling of neglect, while bright, well-painted wood can really add to kerb appeal.

When the days are warmer and dryer it's the perfect time to tackle unsightly exterior window frames and doors. Woodwork is often overlooked when undertaking home DIY projects, but it is the wood that provides the finishing touches to your home. Flaking, chipped or poorly painted wood can contribute to a general feeling of neglect, while bright, well-painted wood can really add to kerb appeal.

In this series, we take a closer look at how to treat wood so that it stays looking its best for longer. The series will cover: Stripping Wood; Covering Old Paint; and Priming and Filling Wood.

The key to a good finish to wood is preparation. Sometimes it is possible to achieve a good finish by painting over existing paint (keep an eye out for our next blog), but often, the best way to get a high-quality finish is to strip the existing paint. If the existing paint is so bad that you can’t paint over it, or if you want a natural wood finish, then the best course of action is to strip the existing paint. Before you start, make sure that the paint isn’t lead-based (this is only likely in older properties). Lead-based paint can be harmful if sanded or removed using a heat gun.

Using A Heat Gun

This is the quickest and least hard work approach to stripping wood paint, but safety is essential. Make sure that you wear goggles, heat gloves and a mask and ensure that you never hold the torch to wood for a prolonged period of time. Ensuring that the heat gun is always a few centimetres away from the surface, gently heat the paint until it starts to bubble. At this point, use a shave hook or paint scraper to remove the paint. Once one segment is stripped, move onto the next until your surface is paint-free! This may be one of the easiest methods, but it is still time-consuming so make sure you have plenty of breaks to prevent accidents caused by lapsed concentration.

Using Paint Stripper Solution or Paste

Paint stripper is a serious chemical; if it can strip paint, imagine what it can do to your skin, lungs and eyes. Safety is tantamount, so don’t attempt to do this without goggles, mask and gloves. Check the manufacturer’s instructions on the paint stripper that you are using, but most will follow a similar format: use an old brush to paint a good coating of solution or paste onto your surfaces. Leave until the paint bubbles; this can be anything from 5 minutes to an hour, depending on the stripper application and quality, and the thickness of the paint. Once it bubbles, simply peel it away using a paint stripper and a shave hook. Once all of the paint is removed, clean with white spirit and cold water, or whatever is recommended by the manufacturer.

Once your wood has been stripped, you are ready to sand, prime and paint! Follow us on Facebook or Twitter to make sure you get the next part in this series.

And, of course, if you are in doubt, why not get in touch with a trusted local decorator for advice and a quote?

Looking for more carpentry & joinery advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common carpentry & joinery questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • What types of carpentry work should never be attempted as a DIY project?

    Anything structural - staircases, roof timbers, load-bearing walls, lintels. And anything that needs to meet Building Regulations, like fire doors or stair balustrading.

    Getting structural carpentry wrong isn't just a cosmetic problem - it can affect how safe your home is. Worth paying for a professional who knows what they're doing.

  • Can a carpenter fix a door that won't close properly?

    Yes, and it's a very common call-out. Doors that stick, drop, or won't latch are usually down to one of three things: swelling from moisture, hinges that have worked loose, or the frame moving slightly as the building settles.

    Most of the time it's a straightforward fix. If several doors in the house are playing up at once, it might point to something structural - worth flagging when you get someone in.

  • Do I need a professional to install a staircase or banister?

    Yes. Staircase and banister installation has to meet Part K of the Building Regulations - covering handrail height, baluster spacing, and stair pitch.

    A badly installed staircase or banister is a real safety risk. A qualified carpenter or joiner will make sure it's both structurally sound and compliant.

  • How do I know if a wooden window frame needs repairing or replacing?

    Repair is usually still an option if the frame is structurally sound (no soft or spongy patches when you press it), the rot is only on the surface or in a small section, and the joints are still tight. Surface rot can often be cut back, hardened, and filled with epoxy filler - a good carpenter can make it look like new.

    If the rot goes deep, the frame is badly warped, or the joints have failed, replacement is the more cost-effective route.

  • What causes wooden floors or staircases to creak and can it be fixed?

    Creaks come from movement - boards or treads rubbing against each other, against fixings, or against the structure beneath them as they flex underfoot. It often happens as boards expand or contract with changes in humidity.

    In many cases, screwing things down more firmly or applying a lubricant between moving parts sorts it. If the creak covers a wide area or keeps coming back, a carpenter should take a proper look.

  • What are the benefits of bespoke fitted furniture over flat-pack?

    The main one is fit. Bespoke is built exactly to your space - and in older UK homes especially, that matters. Sloping ceilings, alcoves, chimney breasts, walls that aren't quite square - flat-pack units run into all of these and often end up with awkward filler panels and gaps.

    Bespoke joinery is also generally more solidly built and lasts longer. It costs more and takes longer, but for fitted storage in a room with character, it's usually the right investment.

  • Can a carpenter repair rotting timber or structural woodwork?

    Yes - it's a core part of the job. Surface rot can often be cut back, treated, and filled with epoxy filler that can be shaped, sanded, and painted to match the surrounding wood. Deeper rot in structural timber - joists, window sills, roof timbers - usually means partial or full replacement of that section.

    The important thing is also fixing whatever caused the moisture problem in the first place. Repairing the wood without sorting the damp is just delaying the same issue.

Have a question about TrustATrader?

If you have a question in relation to TrustATrader specifically, please check out the TrustATrader FAQs, with separate lists tailored to consumers and tradespeople. Alternatively, get in touch with our team. We're happy to help!