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Heating

Advice on boilers, radiators, central heating systems and keeping your home warm and energy efficient.

Heating

Old House? Here's How to Reduce Damp

If you own or rent an older home, damp is likely to be a problem at some point. This is due to a combination of factors including construction methods, lack of ventilation due to new double glazing, lack of modern waterproofing materials, and general wear and tear over time. And, as always, it is easier to avoid damp and the problems it comes with rather than trying to fight a battle with mold and damp patches.

If you own or rent an older home, damp is likely to be a problem at some point. This is due to a combination of factors including construction methods, lack of ventilation due to new double glazing, lack of modern waterproofing materials, and general wear and tear over time. And, as always, it is easier to avoid damp and the problems it comes with rather than trying to fight a battle with mold and damp patches.

Understanding the Types of Damp

Before you prevent or treat damp, you need to know what you are dealing with. There are three main types of damp: rising damp, penetrating damp, and condensation.

Rising damp - when groundwater seeps up through the walls due to a compromised or non-existent damp-proof course (DPC). If you have rising damp, it will need to be treated to prevent longer term problems. Damp-proof course injections, improved drainage, and internal damp-proof membrane are all possible options and although expensive, will prevent structural damage and make your property easier to rent or sell in the future.

Penetrating damp - when water enters the building through external defects like damaged roofs, gutters, or walls.

The exterior of an older home is often more vulnerable to damp due to weathering and deterioration over time. Regular maintenance can prevent water ingress and the resulting damp issues.

  • Check the roof for missing or damaged tiles and ensure the flashing is intact around chimneys and roof junctions.
  • Clear gutters and downpipes regularly to prevent blockages, which can lead to water overflowing and penetrating walls.
  • Inspect walls for cracks or damaged render and repair promptly. Consider applying a breathable, water-repellent coating to brickwork to prevent water absorption while allowing trapped moisture to escape.

Condensation - when moist air meets cooler surfaces, leading to mold and mildew growth.

Poor ventilation is a common cause of condensation, especially in older homes. Various methods can reduce the problem. Try:

  • Installing or upgrading extractor fans in high-moisture areas like kitchens and bathrooms.
  • Regularly opening windows to allow fresh air circulation.
  • Using trickle vents on windows to provide continuous ventilation without fully opening them.

While good ventilation can help to prevent damp, controlling condensation by reducing indoor humidity and preventing warm air from contacting cold surfaces is important too. Practical steps include:

  • Using lids on pans while cooking and ensuring extractor fans are on.
  • Keeping bathroom doors closed during and after showers to contain moisture.
  • Insulating cold surfaces, such as external walls, to prevent them from cooling to a temperature where condensation occurs. Adding insulation or plasterboard with an insulating layer can be effective.

If you live in a rented property and you notice damp, contact your agent or landlord to inspect and treat the problem. If you own your property or are looking to buy a property with damp problems, contact a damp specialist for advice on how to proceed. For more tips, follow us on Facebook or X.

Looking for more heating advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common heating questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • What is the difference between a combi boiler and a system boiler?

    A combi heats water straight from the mains on demand - no cylinder needed, which makes it compact and ideal for smaller homes or flats. A system boiler works with a hot water cylinder, storing a ready supply that can serve multiple taps or showers at once without the pressure dropping - better for larger homes with more bathrooms. There's also the conventional boiler, which needs both a cylinder and a cold water tank in the loft - common in older properties. A heating engineer can help you figure out which suits your home best.

  • Is an air source heat pump right for my home?

    Heat pumps pull warmth from the outside air (even when it's cold) and use it to heat your home and hot water. They work best in well-insulated homes, ideally with underfloor heating or larger radiators that work well at lower temperatures. In draughty or poorly insulated properties, the benefits are more limited. The Boiler Upgrade Scheme currently offers a grant of up to £7,500 towards installation, so it's worth getting a professional assessment to see whether your home is a good fit before committing.

  • How often should a boiler be serviced?

    Once a year, by a Gas Safe registered engineer. It keeps the boiler running safely, catches small issues before they become expensive, and is usually a condition of the manufacturer's warranty. Some home insurance policies require proof of regular servicing too. If you're not sure when yours was last done, book one before winter - better to find out before you're sitting in a cold house!

  • Why is my radiator cold at the top but warm at the bottom?

    This issue is almost always trapped air. Bleeding the radiator - using a radiator key to release the air - usually sorts it, and it's one of the few heating jobs you can safely do yourself. If bleeding it doesn't work, or if several radiators are having the same problem, it might be a pressure or pump issue. Worth getting a heating engineer in to have a look.

  • What are the signs my boiler needs replacing?

    Keep an eye out for: frequent breakdowns, energy bills going up without using more heat, unusual noises (banging, kettling, or whistling), a flame that's yellow or orange instead of blue, and any visible leaks or rust around the unit. If your boiler is over fifteen years old and ticking any of those boxes, replacing it is usually the more economical choice - modern boilers are significantly more efficient.

  • Is underfloor heating worth it and do I need a professional to install it?

    For a new build or a big renovation, underfloor heating is often a great investment - it heats rooms more evenly than radiators and can be more efficient, especially alongside a heat pump. Retrofitting in an existing home is more of a job, and how worthwhile it is depends on your floor types and how much disruption you're happy to deal with. Either way - wet or electric - it has to be installed by a qualified professional.

  • Why does my boiler keep losing pressure?

    Some pressure drop over time is normal, but if you're topping it up regularly there's usually a cause: a small leak in the system (which isn't always easy to spot), a pressure relief valve that's releasing water, or air in the system after bleeding radiators. Topping it up via the filling loop is fine as a short-term fix, but if you're doing it more than a couple of times a year, it's worth getting an engineer to look into why it keeps happening.

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