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How To Draught-Proof Your Home

28th September 2018

If you are starting to feel the chill but don’t want to succumb to the central heating just yet, try a bit of draught elimination! Draughts are one of the main causes of lost heat in the home; your heat (and your money!) is literally flowing out through, or around, the door.

Even the smallest gaps can cause a significant draught and make a mockery of any insulation measures that you have already taken.

The Culprits

Draughts tend to come from around windows and doors, keyholes, letterboxes and fireplaces. These can all be fixed fairly quickly, easily and cheaply: here’s how.

Keyholes and Letterboxes

It is surprising just how much of a draught can be produced by a relatively small keyhole. What’s more, older homes tend to have more than one keyhole: the active one, and one (or more) redundant one. If you have a porch, you may not notice the draught, but if you don’t have a porch, it is worth making sure that your keyholes are covered. You can fit locks with escutcheon covers, which will fall over the hole when it’s not in use, or you can invest in a keyhole draft excluder; a clever gadget that protects your home from draughts. This simple job will make a big difference; contact a local locksmith or handyman if you need help.

Like keyholes, a draughty letterbox can be remedied fairly easily, too. A secure external cover and internal draught excluder will prevent a brisk breeze from invading your home and stealing the warmth!

Fireplaces

If your fireplace is not used, you can eliminate the draught easily by boarding off the chimney. However, it is important that you ensure that the room is adequately ventilated to prevent condensation and mould.

Windows and Doors

If you live in rented accommodation or are looking for a quick fix, you can use a draught excluder. However, for a long-term solution on exterior doors, seal windows and doors. Doors can be fitted with a flexible rubber or brush seal at the bottom. These can be cut to size and screwed into place. For windows and door frames, you can choose from self-adhesive strip insulation or slot-fitting compression strips. The strip insulation is made of foam and is quick and easy to fit. When the door or window closes, the foam is compressed, making sure that there is not gap for even the most determined draught. However, over time, the foam can become too compressed, making it less effective. Slot-fitting compression strips can be cut to size to provide a tight seal when the door or window closes. They are a little more time-consuming to fit than adhesive ones, but are likely to last longer.

If your windows and doors are incredibly draughty, your double glazing may need to be replaced. Contact a vetted local double-glazing specialist for a free, no-obligation quote.

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A few broken tiles or a small patch of damaged flashing? That's usually a repair job. But if your roof is over 20 years old, leaks keep coming back in different spots, or you're seeing sagging or widespread cracking, replacement is probably the smarter long-term call. A proper inspection from a roofer will give you a straight answer before you commit to anything.
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Not an emergency, but don't leave it too long. Moss holds moisture against the tiles, which can work its way underneath and cause cracking in winter. It'll also block your gutters if it spreads far enough. Getting it professionally cleaned and treated is the way to go - it's not a job to DIY given the risks of working at height.
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Small problems get expensive fast. A few displaced tiles can leave the felt underneath exposed to weather damage, and even a minor leak can cause timber rot, saturate insulation, and eventually ruin ceilings and walls. What could've been a straightforward repair becomes a much bigger project the longer you leave it, so it's best to get it sorted sooner rather than later.
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If tiles are missing or water's getting in, the priority is limiting the damage until a roofer can get to you. A heavy-duty tarpaulin over the affected area is your best bet - make sure it extends well past the damage and is secured so it doesn't lift in the wind. Inside, move furniture out of the way, put buckets down, and use towels to manage any water coming through. Don't go up on the roof yourself as wet tiles are dangerously slippery.
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A green roof has a waterproof layer topped with soil and plants - usually sedums or grasses for a low-maintenance version, or something more garden-like if you want to go further. They insulate well, soak up rainwater, and are good for local wildlife. They can also extend the life of the waterproofing underneath by shielding it from sun and temperature swings. Whether it's worth it depends on your roof's structure and what you're hoping to get out of it. Installation needs to be done professionally - a leak underneath a green roof is a far bigger headache than on a standard flat roof.

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