Carpet Essentials: Getting the Right Price

Looking for more flooring advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common flooring questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

• How do I know when my flooring needs professional repair rather than DIY?

  A loose plank or a surface scratch? DIY products can handle that. But widespread lifting, buckling, soft or spongy patches underfoot, or visible water damage are signs of something deeper - a subfloor issue or damp - that needs proper assessment. Patching the surface without fixing the underlying problem just means you'll be dealing with it again soon.

• How do I fix squeaky or uneven floorboards?

  Squeaks usually come from boards rubbing against each other or against fixings as they move. Screwing them down more firmly or applying a lubricant between boards often solves it. Uneven boards are more of a concern - they can point to subfloor movement or joist problems that need looking at properly. If the issue is spreading or getting worse, don't just patch it.

• Can I lay flooring myself or should I hire a professional?

  Laminate or click vinyl in a straightforward rectangular room? DIY is doable if you're handy. Solid hardwood, natural stone, large-format tiles, or anything in a room with tricky angles - get a professional. The materials cost enough that a fitting mistake is expensive to put right, and subfloor prep is the bit most people underestimate.

• Can damaged or uneven flooring be a safety hazard?

  Yes, genuinely. Raised edges, buckling boards, loose tiles, and soft patches are all trip hazards - particularly for children and older people. Lifting near water sources can also mean there's a damp or drainage issue making things worse underneath. If the same problem keeps coming back despite fixes, it needs a proper assessment rather than another patch.

• What subfloor preparation is needed before new flooring is laid?

  The subfloor needs to be clean, dry, flat, and solid - this matters more than most people realise. Even small dips or bumps can cause laminate, tile, or vinyl to crack, creak, or lift over time. In older homes you might need to secure or replace existing floorboards, and moisture should always be checked before laying wood or engineered flooring over concrete. A good installer will assess the subfloor before quoting, not after.

• What type of flooring is best for kitchens and bathrooms?

  Both rooms need something water-resistant. In kitchens, luxury vinyl tile (LVT) is currently the go-to - fully waterproof, warmer underfoot than tile, and available in loads of finishes.

  Porcelain tile is excellent if you like a harder, easy-to-clean surface. In bathrooms, the same options work but slip resistance becomes more important - particularly around the shower or bath.

  Avoid regular laminate and solid wood in bathrooms, and only use properly sealed engineered wood in kitchens. Factor in underfloor heating compatibility early if that's something you want.

• How do I choose between laminate and hardwood flooring?

  Hardwood is the real thing - solid timber that can be sanded and refinished multiple times, so it can genuinely last generations.

  The downsides: it reacts to moisture and moves with the seasons. Laminate is more resistant to scratches and damp, cheaper, and easier to fit - but once it's worn, it's worn. You can't refinish it.

  Engineered wood is a solid middle ground - real wood veneer on a stable plywood core that handles moisture and underfloor heating better than solid hardwood. If longevity matters and you're happy to invest, hardwood or engineered wood is worth it. If you want a good-looking, practical floor at lower cost, quality laminate is absolutely fine.