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Flooring

Expert advice on hardwood, laminate, carpet and other flooring solutions for homes.

Flooring

Carpet Cleaning Part Two: Tackling Stubborn Stains

This week, we look at how you can tackle those really stubborn carpet stains; the ones you barely notice any more as you have simply learnt to live with them.

It is surprising how much difference your flooring can make to your home; clean, bright flooring tells a story of a well-cared-for, welcoming environment, whereas tired, scuffed, stained or grubby flooring tells the opposite tale. Last week, we took a look at some of the resources and techniques to prevent staining as well as some top tips from professional carpet and upholstery cleaners. This week, we take a closer look at how you can tackle some of those really stubborn stains; the ones that you barely notice any more as you have simply learnt to live with them.

Stubborn stains and wax

Get the iron out. You read right. When it comes to tough stains, your iron could be your best hope in getting rid of old or dried stains. It is always best to treat a clean carpet, so give it a good vacuum first before spraying a mix of ¼ white vinegar and ¾ water. Add a splash of lemon to avoid the chip shop smell! Leave the mix for 5-10 minutes and place a clean towel over the wet patch. Place the iron over the towel and apply pressure for ten seconds. This should be long enough for the stain to move from the carpet to the towel. If the stain remains, repeat, using clean patches of towel each time to prevent the stain transferring back to the carpet! Finish with a final once-over with the vacuum and you should have a good-as-new carpet.

Tackle oil with baking powder

Many people will consider an oil stain as untouchable, however don’t write it off until you have tried baking powder. Sprinkle a liberal amount of baking powder onto the oily patch and brush it deep into the carpet fibres. Leave for fifteen minutes; during this time, the powder will do its work absorbing the oil. Brush away the powder and apply washing up liquid to the area. Give it a good scrub with a toothbrush, and wash away with warm water.

Freeze gum out

You may or may not know that the best (if not only way) to get rid of gum is to freeze it. Of course, you can’t put your whole carpet in the freezer, but you can bring the freezer to it. Fill a sandwich bag with ice and seal it well. Place it on the gum for at least 30 seconds; this should be long enough for the gum to solidify and go brittle. Once brittle, remove the gum with a knife. If a stain remains, follow the iron tip above.

Shaving cream to the rescue

A secret weapon deployed by most professional cleaners is shaving foam. Not many people know that shaving foam is in fact a very strong soap. The cheapest stuff – that has no scent or colour – is incredibly effective in removing stubborn stains without using too much water. This makes it great for delicate fabrics that may not be entirely colour fast, as well as walls. Remember to test it in a discreet place before you use it liberally!

We hope that you have found these cleaning tips handy; for more advice from the professionals, follow Trust A Trader on Facebook or Twitter.

Looking for more flooring advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common flooring questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • How do I know when my flooring needs professional repair rather than DIY?

    A loose plank or a surface scratch? DIY products can handle that. But widespread lifting, buckling, soft or spongy patches underfoot, or visible water damage are signs of something deeper - a subfloor issue or damp - that needs proper assessment. Patching the surface without fixing the underlying problem just means you'll be dealing with it again soon.

  • How do I fix squeaky or uneven floorboards?

    Squeaks usually come from boards rubbing against each other or against fixings as they move. Screwing them down more firmly or applying a lubricant between boards often solves it. Uneven boards are more of a concern - they can point to subfloor movement or joist problems that need looking at properly. If the issue is spreading or getting worse, don't just patch it.

  • Can I lay flooring myself or should I hire a professional?

    Laminate or click vinyl in a straightforward rectangular room? DIY is doable if you're handy. Solid hardwood, natural stone, large-format tiles, or anything in a room with tricky angles - get a professional. The materials cost enough that a fitting mistake is expensive to put right, and subfloor prep is the bit most people underestimate.

  • Can damaged or uneven flooring be a safety hazard?

    Yes, genuinely. Raised edges, buckling boards, loose tiles, and soft patches are all trip hazards - particularly for children and older people. Lifting near water sources can also mean there's a damp or drainage issue making things worse underneath. If the same problem keeps coming back despite fixes, it needs a proper assessment rather than another patch.

  • What subfloor preparation is needed before new flooring is laid?

    The subfloor needs to be clean, dry, flat, and solid - this matters more than most people realise. Even small dips or bumps can cause laminate, tile, or vinyl to crack, creak, or lift over time. In older homes you might need to secure or replace existing floorboards, and moisture should always be checked before laying wood or engineered flooring over concrete. A good installer will assess the subfloor before quoting, not after.

  • What type of flooring is best for kitchens and bathrooms?

    Both rooms need something water-resistant. In kitchens, luxury vinyl tile (LVT) is currently the go-to - fully waterproof, warmer underfoot than tile, and available in loads of finishes.

    Porcelain tile is excellent if you like a harder, easy-to-clean surface. In bathrooms, the same options work but slip resistance becomes more important - particularly around the shower or bath.

    Avoid regular laminate and solid wood in bathrooms, and only use properly sealed engineered wood in kitchens. Factor in underfloor heating compatibility early if that's something you want.

  • How do I choose between laminate and hardwood flooring?

    Hardwood is the real thing - solid timber that can be sanded and refinished multiple times, so it can genuinely last generations.

    The downsides: it reacts to moisture and moves with the seasons. Laminate is more resistant to scratches and damp, cheaper, and easier to fit - but once it's worn, it's worn. You can't refinish it.

    Engineered wood is a solid middle ground - real wood veneer on a stable plywood core that handles moisture and underfloor heating better than solid hardwood. If longevity matters and you're happy to invest, hardwood or engineered wood is worth it. If you want a good-looking, practical floor at lower cost, quality laminate is absolutely fine.

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If you have a question in relation to TrustATrader specifically, please check out the TrustATrader FAQs, with separate lists tailored to consumers and tradespeople. Alternatively, get in touch with our team. We're happy to help!