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Landscaping & Gardening

Top tips on all things garden design, including fencing, lawn care, planting and outdoor improvements.

Landscaping & Gardening

Your Guide To: Composting

As we strive to reduce landfill waste and become more diligent with all of our waste, it makes sense for anyone with a garden to think about composting. In this series, we will give you the basics about composting, as well as an overview of what you can and can’t compost.

As we strive to reduce landfill waste and become more diligent with all of our waste, it makes sense for anyone with a garden to think about composting. In this series, we will give you the basics about composting, as well as an overview of what you can and can’t compost.

Composting is a natural process where natural matter breaks down to form a soil that is packed with nutrients. Once organic matter has broken down to make compost, it can be added to soil to create an effective fertiliser and promote growth in your garden. No matter how big or small your garden, by making your own compost you can reduce waste, avoid having to buy compost, and help your garden to look blooming beautiful. And, of course, if you are a composter, you will feel that satisfaction that you get when you do something very green!

There is a range of opinions on how to make the best compost and most people tend to think that their method is the best! One thing, however, is not debatable: before you compost, you need a decent container:

  • Plastic bins are specially made and relatively cheap to buy.
  • Wooden bins are more versatile and offer better ventilation, which can speed up the composting process.
  • Concrete bins don’t rot and are sturdy.
  • Recycled dumpy bags make great compost bins, but don’t look particularly attractive!
  • Hurdle-style compost bins made of willow or strong trellis hold large volumes and look good, too.

As natural waste breaks down, it creates heat and this heat helps to maintain the breaking down process. Therefore, it is a good idea to keep your compost heap covered if you can, to retain heat and to prevent the heap from getting too wet.

Layering is a good way of getting a high-quality compost as well as expediating the composting process. For example, a layer of coarse material allows more air to circulate throughout the compost, which encourages the aerobic reactions needed for natural materials to break down. During the summer, when your compost is likely to be mostly grass clippings, you can add a layer of kitchen waste (e.g. coffee grounds, herbivore bedding, paper, cardboard egg boxes or egg shells) to encourage those all-important pockets of air.

Depending on the environment and the nature of materials that you are composting, the process can take between two and nine months. If you have a large garden, you could have two or more compost heaps, each at different stages of decomposition. You will need to access the bottom of the heap to get to the compost; shop-bought compost bins usually have a hatch at the bottom, but if you have a home-made, hurdle-style one, you can just remove a side to get to the good stuff at the bottom.

If you start composting now, you might have compost for your spring planting, and you will definitely have compost ready for autumn. If you would like help in the garden, check out our directory of handymen and gardeners near you.

Follow us on Facebook or Twitter for next week’s instalment: What To Compost, And What Not To.

Looking for more landscaping & gardening advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common landscaping & gardening questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • Do I need a professional to design and landscape my garden?

    For simple stuff - planting, basic lawn care, a few raised beds - you can often manage it yourself. For anything involving hard landscaping, drainage, retaining walls, or changing ground levels, get a professional involved.

    Badly built retaining walls and poor drainage cause expensive problems. A landscaper will also know which materials will actually work for your soil and conditions.

  • What is the difference between a landscaper and a gardener?

    A gardener looks after your garden on an ongoing basis - mowing, pruning, planting, general upkeep. A landscaper creates the garden in the first place - patios, paths, fencing, decking, drainage, planting schemes, the whole structure. Some people do both, but they're distinct skill sets.

    If you want the garden transformed rather than maintained, a landscaper is who you need.

  • How do I get rid of an overgrown garden?

    It's often more work than it looks. Beyond cutting things back, there may be significant root systems to clear, possibly invasive species to deal with (Japanese knotweed needs specialist handling), and ground prep before any replanting can happen.

    For anything seriously overgrown, professional clearance is going to be faster, more thorough, and safer than tackling it yourself.

  • What time of year is best for garden landscaping work?

    Hard landscaping - patios, paths, decking, fencing - can happen most of the year, though very wet or frozen ground causes delays. Planting is best in spring or autumn when things establish more easily.

    If you're planning something big, book a landscaper in late winter for spring work - good ones fill up fast once the season gets going.

  • What should I do if I have Japanese knotweed in my garden?

    Take it seriously. It can damage buildings and hard surfaces, and some mortgage lenders won't lend on properties where it's present and unmanaged. You're not legally required to remove it as long as it stays within your boundary, but you are responsible for stopping it from spreading to neighbouring land.

    It needs specialist treatment - either chemical treatment over multiple growing seasons, or excavation and licensed disposal. Don't compost it or put it in your general garden waste.

  • What are the benefits of artificial grass?

    The obvious one: no mowing. It stays looking decent all year and doesn't turn to mud in winter, which is a real plus for households with kids or dogs. Modern artificial grass is much more realistic than it used to be and holds its colour well. Worth knowing though: it gets noticeably hot in direct sun, needs occasional brushing, and is made from plastic that can't currently be recycled at end of life.

    It's a great fit for a low-maintenance, practical space - less so if the environmental benefits of a real lawn matter to you.

  • How can I make my garden low-maintenance?

    Cut down the amount of lawn first - it needs more regular attention than almost anything else. Swapping sections for hard landscaping or planted beds with ground-cover plants makes a real difference.

    Pick plants that suit your soil and aspect - ones that are happy where they are will largely look after themselves once established.

    A thick bark mulch layer keeps weeds down and holds moisture. A drip irrigation system on a timer removes another regular task. A good landscaper can design a scheme specifically around low maintenance rather than just what looks attractive.

  • Do I need planning permission for decking, a pergola, or a garden room?

    Decking is usually fine under Permitted Development as long as it's no more than 30cm above ground and doesn't cover more than half the garden. Open pergolas are generally okay - but start enclosing them with a roof and sides and they get treated differently.

    Garden rooms are classed as outbuildings: permitted if single-storey, within size limits, not used as living accommodation, and set back properly from boundaries. Listed buildings are a different matter - any structure nearby needs listed building consent. If you're not sure, a quick inquiry to your local planning authority will give you a clear answer before you spend anything.

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