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Landscaping & Gardening

Top tips on all things garden design, including fencing, lawn care, planting and outdoor improvements.

Landscaping & Gardening

The Self-Sufficient Gardener - Sowing From Seed in March

As the sun makes its first appearance of the year, bringing with it the promise of warmer days and flourishing gardens, now is a good time to plant seeds for consumption over the coming months. If you’re not a seasoned gardener, the prospect of growing from seed may be a little daunting. Here are some plants that you can grow fairly confidently from seed, sowing in March and reaping the rewards throughout the year.

As the sun makes its first appearance of the year, bringing with it the promise of warmer days and flourishing gardens, now is a good time to plant seeds for consumption over the coming months. If you’re not a seasoned gardener, the prospect of growing from seed may be a little daunting. Here are some plants that you can grow fairly confidently from seed, sowing in March and reaping the rewards throughout the year.

As a general rule, better quality seeds or plants will get you better results; while supermarket products may be cheaper, you may not necessarily get as good a yield as you will from the seeds of reputable garden centres or online suppliers.

Aubergines

Aubergines are becoming increasingly popular and are a delicious addition to a meal, adding a little bit of sunshine to your plate. Aubergines can be grown outside but they do best in a greenhouse or growing frame.

You can sow aubergines from:

  • January – in a heated greenhouse
  • February – in an unheated greenhouse
  • Late February/ March – on a windowsill
  • March - April outdoor sowing

If you are unable to grow your plants from seed, you can buy plants online or from a garden centre.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are a great vegetable garden staple and can be enjoyed and preserved. Often, tomato plants yield large quantities of fruit; if you have used your own compost which might contain tomatoes from food waste, don’t be surprised if you end up with more plants than you planted in the first place!

If you are growing in a greenhouse, you can sew your tomatoes as early as February. However, if you are planning on growing your plants in the garden, hold off sowing your seeds until late March or April. Regardless of where you sow, you will need to keep the seedlings at about 18˚. Once they have grown at least two leaves, transplant them into 9cm pots. AS soon as they start to flower, transplant them once again to 23cm pots or grow bags.

Carrots

You don’t know what a real carrot tastes like until you have grown one in your garden… Carrots need light, sunny soil; they will struggle to push down through wet or clay-heavy soil. If your soils is heavy, you can try growing carrots in a deep put or bucket, although ideally you want open ground. Sow inside and plant out from February, or sow directly into your garden from the end of March until early summer. Space the seeds an inch apart to avoid the need to thin out.

Carrots are fairly low maintenance, but they can become overcrowded by weeds, so weed regularly to make sure that they have plenty of space.

Growing your own can seem labour intensive, but there is no doubt that nothing tastes better than a freshly picked, sun-warmed tomato, or carrot pulled straight from your own soil. If you don’t have the inclination to do it yourself, check out our directory of trusted local gardeners – they will do the hard work for you!

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Looking for more landscaping & gardening advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common landscaping & gardening questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • Do I need a professional to design and landscape my garden?

    For simple stuff - planting, basic lawn care, a few raised beds - you can often manage it yourself. For anything involving hard landscaping, drainage, retaining walls, or changing ground levels, get a professional involved.

    Badly built retaining walls and poor drainage cause expensive problems. A landscaper will also know which materials will actually work for your soil and conditions.

  • What is the difference between a landscaper and a gardener?

    A gardener looks after your garden on an ongoing basis - mowing, pruning, planting, general upkeep. A landscaper creates the garden in the first place - patios, paths, fencing, decking, drainage, planting schemes, the whole structure. Some people do both, but they're distinct skill sets.

    If you want the garden transformed rather than maintained, a landscaper is who you need.

  • How do I get rid of an overgrown garden?

    It's often more work than it looks. Beyond cutting things back, there may be significant root systems to clear, possibly invasive species to deal with (Japanese knotweed needs specialist handling), and ground prep before any replanting can happen.

    For anything seriously overgrown, professional clearance is going to be faster, more thorough, and safer than tackling it yourself.

  • What time of year is best for garden landscaping work?

    Hard landscaping - patios, paths, decking, fencing - can happen most of the year, though very wet or frozen ground causes delays. Planting is best in spring or autumn when things establish more easily.

    If you're planning something big, book a landscaper in late winter for spring work - good ones fill up fast once the season gets going.

  • What should I do if I have Japanese knotweed in my garden?

    Take it seriously. It can damage buildings and hard surfaces, and some mortgage lenders won't lend on properties where it's present and unmanaged. You're not legally required to remove it as long as it stays within your boundary, but you are responsible for stopping it from spreading to neighbouring land.

    It needs specialist treatment - either chemical treatment over multiple growing seasons, or excavation and licensed disposal. Don't compost it or put it in your general garden waste.

  • What are the benefits of artificial grass?

    The obvious one: no mowing. It stays looking decent all year and doesn't turn to mud in winter, which is a real plus for households with kids or dogs. Modern artificial grass is much more realistic than it used to be and holds its colour well. Worth knowing though: it gets noticeably hot in direct sun, needs occasional brushing, and is made from plastic that can't currently be recycled at end of life.

    It's a great fit for a low-maintenance, practical space - less so if the environmental benefits of a real lawn matter to you.

  • How can I make my garden low-maintenance?

    Cut down the amount of lawn first - it needs more regular attention than almost anything else. Swapping sections for hard landscaping or planted beds with ground-cover plants makes a real difference.

    Pick plants that suit your soil and aspect - ones that are happy where they are will largely look after themselves once established.

    A thick bark mulch layer keeps weeds down and holds moisture. A drip irrigation system on a timer removes another regular task. A good landscaper can design a scheme specifically around low maintenance rather than just what looks attractive.

  • Do I need planning permission for decking, a pergola, or a garden room?

    Decking is usually fine under Permitted Development as long as it's no more than 30cm above ground and doesn't cover more than half the garden. Open pergolas are generally okay - but start enclosing them with a roof and sides and they get treated differently.

    Garden rooms are classed as outbuildings: permitted if single-storey, within size limits, not used as living accommodation, and set back properly from boundaries. Listed buildings are a different matter - any structure nearby needs listed building consent. If you're not sure, a quick inquiry to your local planning authority will give you a clear answer before you spend anything.

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