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Landscaping & Gardening

Top tips on all things garden design, including fencing, lawn care, planting and outdoor improvements.

Landscaping & Gardening

The Kitchen Garden Part Two: Planting

Like many things in life, the biggest challenge with gardening is the time it takes to see actual results. However, like those great life events, when done right, gardening is worth the wait; in fact, the wait makes the results even more impressive.

Like many things in life, the biggest challenge with gardening is the time it takes to see actual results. However, like those great life events, when done right, gardening is worth the wait; in fact, the wait makes the results even more impressive.

Here’s what you can start planting in March.

Sowing indoors

If you have space to start growing veg indoors, or you are lucky enough to have a greenhouse, then now is a great opportunity to get ahead with your growing.

Get a head start with your spring/summer crops by sowing them indoors and planting them out after the last frost (usually May).

Tomatoes – grow an excess in plugs or pots, then give half away and plant a few extra.

Pumpkin – ideal to sow undercover in March or straight out in May after the frosts.

Cucumber – sow 1-2 cm deep in individual pots. When you plant them out, remember that they are climbers, so provide plenty of vertical space for them to grow.

Aubergine – these need a long season, plant in March and move to individual pots as soon as you see leaves.

Sowing outdoors

Some plants have a longer season and will cope pretty well with being sown out, even in the colder weather, provided the ground has warmed a little.

Parsnips and carrots – put out between now and May, making sure that the ground is stone free.

Peas and beans – the earlier you sow your beans and peas, the sooner you will get a crop. If you sow continuously from March – July, you should get crops from July – October. For March planting, make sure you choose early peas to get the best results.

Leeks and onions – sow now until April or October.

Beetroot – love it or hate it, beetroot is relatively easy to grow; sow direct into your prepared bed from March to July and they will be ready in around 2 months.

Spinach and spring onions – sow every three weeks from March until June for a steady supply from May until October.

Whilst it is not possible for a kitchen gardener to be entirely self-sufficient, the feeling of victory that is gained from taking the fruits of your labour from garden to plate is really very special. And, of course, the more you practice gardening, the better you will get.

If the prospect of starting your kitchen garden is daunting, it may be worth finding a local gardener who can help you to get started, then return once a month to help you maintain that all-important momentum.

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Looking for more landscaping & gardening advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common landscaping & gardening questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • Do I need a professional to design and landscape my garden?

    For simple stuff - planting, basic lawn care, a few raised beds - you can often manage it yourself. For anything involving hard landscaping, drainage, retaining walls, or changing ground levels, get a professional involved.

    Badly built retaining walls and poor drainage cause expensive problems. A landscaper will also know which materials will actually work for your soil and conditions.

  • What is the difference between a landscaper and a gardener?

    A gardener looks after your garden on an ongoing basis - mowing, pruning, planting, general upkeep. A landscaper creates the garden in the first place - patios, paths, fencing, decking, drainage, planting schemes, the whole structure. Some people do both, but they're distinct skill sets.

    If you want the garden transformed rather than maintained, a landscaper is who you need.

  • How do I get rid of an overgrown garden?

    It's often more work than it looks. Beyond cutting things back, there may be significant root systems to clear, possibly invasive species to deal with (Japanese knotweed needs specialist handling), and ground prep before any replanting can happen.

    For anything seriously overgrown, professional clearance is going to be faster, more thorough, and safer than tackling it yourself.

  • What time of year is best for garden landscaping work?

    Hard landscaping - patios, paths, decking, fencing - can happen most of the year, though very wet or frozen ground causes delays. Planting is best in spring or autumn when things establish more easily.

    If you're planning something big, book a landscaper in late winter for spring work - good ones fill up fast once the season gets going.

  • What should I do if I have Japanese knotweed in my garden?

    Take it seriously. It can damage buildings and hard surfaces, and some mortgage lenders won't lend on properties where it's present and unmanaged. You're not legally required to remove it as long as it stays within your boundary, but you are responsible for stopping it from spreading to neighbouring land.

    It needs specialist treatment - either chemical treatment over multiple growing seasons, or excavation and licensed disposal. Don't compost it or put it in your general garden waste.

  • What are the benefits of artificial grass?

    The obvious one: no mowing. It stays looking decent all year and doesn't turn to mud in winter, which is a real plus for households with kids or dogs. Modern artificial grass is much more realistic than it used to be and holds its colour well. Worth knowing though: it gets noticeably hot in direct sun, needs occasional brushing, and is made from plastic that can't currently be recycled at end of life.

    It's a great fit for a low-maintenance, practical space - less so if the environmental benefits of a real lawn matter to you.

  • How can I make my garden low-maintenance?

    Cut down the amount of lawn first - it needs more regular attention than almost anything else. Swapping sections for hard landscaping or planted beds with ground-cover plants makes a real difference.

    Pick plants that suit your soil and aspect - ones that are happy where they are will largely look after themselves once established.

    A thick bark mulch layer keeps weeds down and holds moisture. A drip irrigation system on a timer removes another regular task. A good landscaper can design a scheme specifically around low maintenance rather than just what looks attractive.

  • Do I need planning permission for decking, a pergola, or a garden room?

    Decking is usually fine under Permitted Development as long as it's no more than 30cm above ground and doesn't cover more than half the garden. Open pergolas are generally okay - but start enclosing them with a roof and sides and they get treated differently.

    Garden rooms are classed as outbuildings: permitted if single-storey, within size limits, not used as living accommodation, and set back properly from boundaries. Listed buildings are a different matter - any structure nearby needs listed building consent. If you're not sure, a quick inquiry to your local planning authority will give you a clear answer before you spend anything.

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