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Landscaping & Gardening

Top tips on all things garden design, including fencing, lawn care, planting and outdoor improvements.

Landscaping & Gardening

Pond Life Part 1: How to Build a Pond

A pond can be a great addition to the garden, bringing biodiversity and acting as an attractive feature. However, the prospect of installing and maintaining a pond can be more than a little bit daunting. In this series we will take a look at pond installation, and what you need to do – and what you should avoid doing - to ensure that your pond is brimming with life. First, let’s cover the basics.

A pond can be a great addition to the garden, bringing biodiversity and acting as an attractive feature. However, the prospect of installing and maintaining a pond can be more than a little bit daunting. In this series we will take a look at pond installation, and what you need to do – and what you should avoid doing - to ensure that your pond is brimming with life. First, let’s cover the basics.

Location

As with any change inside or outside the home, location is key. Your pond ideally needs partial shade as full sunlight will lead to unwanted algae growth – and nobody wants a green pond. As full sunlight, you want to avoid areas that are too close to deciduous trees to prevent autumn leaves from falling and settling on the pond’s base. If it isn’t possible to avoid the trees, don’t worry; you can cover it with a net in autumn to avoid too much debris.

Size

Once you know roughly where your pond will go, it is time to consider size and depth. This will very much depend on the purpose of your pond. If you are not planning on keeping fish, a depth of above 0.5 metres will be fine. If you plan on having small, decorative fish, a depth of 0.5-1m is advisable, and if larger fish and koi carp will be inhabiting your new pond, you should aim for a minimum depth of 1-1.5m. This is necessary as deeper water remains slightly warmer during the winter months, allowing fish to semi-hibernate.

Shape and liner

You can choose from prefabricated plastic or fibreglass liners or, for more flexibility in shape, you can opt to use a flexible rubber liner. While premade liners may be more convenient, using a rubber liner lets you plan your own shape to fit with the area that you are using; this can be especially useful if you want a deeper or irregularly shaped pond.

Can a pond go on a slope?

Ideally, ponds will be placed in a level area. If this is not possible, it may be necessary for you to add a small retaining wall to the lower level so that you can maintain water levels. Another alternative is to dig to greater depth by the higher level.

Choosing your pump and filter

In order to keep your pond in great condition – regardless of whether you are planning on keeping fish – it is a good idea to install a pump and filter system. Usually filters sit outside of the pond; water is pumped into the filter, which cleans the water and returns it back to the pond. Some filters have a UV clarifier which eliminates suspended algae, which causes green water; if you didn’t manage to find that shady spot for your pond, a UV clarifier may be a good idea.

If installed correctly, your pond will bring you – and subsequent inhabitants of your home – much joy. For advice on installing your pond, speak to a pond liner installation specialist, who will be able to help with the hard work, so that you don’t have to. For advice on pond maintenance, flora and fauna, follow us on Facebook or Twitter for next week’s instalment.

Looking for more landscaping & gardening advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common landscaping & gardening questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • Do I need a professional to design and landscape my garden?

    For simple stuff - planting, basic lawn care, a few raised beds - you can often manage it yourself. For anything involving hard landscaping, drainage, retaining walls, or changing ground levels, get a professional involved.

    Badly built retaining walls and poor drainage cause expensive problems. A landscaper will also know which materials will actually work for your soil and conditions.

  • What is the difference between a landscaper and a gardener?

    A gardener looks after your garden on an ongoing basis - mowing, pruning, planting, general upkeep. A landscaper creates the garden in the first place - patios, paths, fencing, decking, drainage, planting schemes, the whole structure. Some people do both, but they're distinct skill sets.

    If you want the garden transformed rather than maintained, a landscaper is who you need.

  • How do I get rid of an overgrown garden?

    It's often more work than it looks. Beyond cutting things back, there may be significant root systems to clear, possibly invasive species to deal with (Japanese knotweed needs specialist handling), and ground prep before any replanting can happen.

    For anything seriously overgrown, professional clearance is going to be faster, more thorough, and safer than tackling it yourself.

  • What time of year is best for garden landscaping work?

    Hard landscaping - patios, paths, decking, fencing - can happen most of the year, though very wet or frozen ground causes delays. Planting is best in spring or autumn when things establish more easily.

    If you're planning something big, book a landscaper in late winter for spring work - good ones fill up fast once the season gets going.

  • What should I do if I have Japanese knotweed in my garden?

    Take it seriously. It can damage buildings and hard surfaces, and some mortgage lenders won't lend on properties where it's present and unmanaged. You're not legally required to remove it as long as it stays within your boundary, but you are responsible for stopping it from spreading to neighbouring land.

    It needs specialist treatment - either chemical treatment over multiple growing seasons, or excavation and licensed disposal. Don't compost it or put it in your general garden waste.

  • What are the benefits of artificial grass?

    The obvious one: no mowing. It stays looking decent all year and doesn't turn to mud in winter, which is a real plus for households with kids or dogs. Modern artificial grass is much more realistic than it used to be and holds its colour well. Worth knowing though: it gets noticeably hot in direct sun, needs occasional brushing, and is made from plastic that can't currently be recycled at end of life.

    It's a great fit for a low-maintenance, practical space - less so if the environmental benefits of a real lawn matter to you.

  • How can I make my garden low-maintenance?

    Cut down the amount of lawn first - it needs more regular attention than almost anything else. Swapping sections for hard landscaping or planted beds with ground-cover plants makes a real difference.

    Pick plants that suit your soil and aspect - ones that are happy where they are will largely look after themselves once established.

    A thick bark mulch layer keeps weeds down and holds moisture. A drip irrigation system on a timer removes another regular task. A good landscaper can design a scheme specifically around low maintenance rather than just what looks attractive.

  • Do I need planning permission for decking, a pergola, or a garden room?

    Decking is usually fine under Permitted Development as long as it's no more than 30cm above ground and doesn't cover more than half the garden. Open pergolas are generally okay - but start enclosing them with a roof and sides and they get treated differently.

    Garden rooms are classed as outbuildings: permitted if single-storey, within size limits, not used as living accommodation, and set back properly from boundaries. Listed buildings are a different matter - any structure nearby needs listed building consent. If you're not sure, a quick inquiry to your local planning authority will give you a clear answer before you spend anything.

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