Flooring

Expert advice on hardwood, laminate, carpet and other flooring solutions for homes.

How To: Measure and Lay Luxury Vinyl Tiling

17th July 2020

The days when your flooring options were limited to tiles, wood or linoleum are far behind us. Today, there are so many flooring choices that it can be more than a little overwhelming. One relatively new entrant to the kitchen and bathroom floor market is Luxury Vinyl Tiling, or LVT. The glamorous sibling of laminate flooring, LVT comes in a range of striking finishes and is suitable for most uses. In this series, we give you a brief introduction to LVT, and how to measure and fit it.

Types of LVT

There are two types of Luxury Vinyl Tiling: gluedown LVT and click LVT. While gluedown is cheaper, click LVT tends to be much easier to install - as the name suggests, the tiles just click into place with no gluing needed. Click LVT is also thicker than gluedown LVT, so you will not normally need underlay. If you fall in love with a pattern that is only available on gluedown LVT, it is best to get a professional floor fitter to lay your floor for you.

Step 1 – Measure up

It sounds like a no-brainer, but failing to measure up properly can leave you short of flooring, in which case you will have to wait for new tiles to arrive (and hope that the batch number is still available). To find out how much LVT you’ll need, you need to know the area of your room in square feet or metres. If your room is a regular shape, this will be easy; just measure two adjacent walls and multiply the two numbers together. If you have an irregular shaped room, divide it up into squares or rectangles and work out the area of each. Add them together to find the total area. It can be wise to err on the side of caution and add an extra square metre (or foot) or two; this will give you leeway if you have measured slightly inaccurately, and will give you spares if you mis-cut a piece.

Step 2 – Prepare your subfloor

Depending on the brand and quality of your LVT, you may or may not need to use underlay. Some LVTs come with sponge backing, ready to lay directly on top of your old floor. Regardless of whether you need underlay or not, it is wise to prepare your subfloor. Whether you are laying LVT on wood, old tiles or concrete, make sure that your floor is level, clean, smooth and dry. Irregularities, lumps, bumps and cracks can damage your LVT and cause complications in the longer term.

Once your subfloor is cleaned and any levelling or repairs have been undertaken, you are ready to go! Check out the next blog in the series to find out how to lay a floating floor.

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Find clear, practical answers to common flooring questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

How do I know when my flooring needs professional repair rather than DIY?

A loose plank or a surface scratch? DIY products can handle that. But widespread lifting, buckling, soft or spongy patches underfoot, or visible water damage are signs of something deeper - a subfloor issue or damp - that needs proper assessment. Patching the surface without fixing the underlying problem just means you'll be dealing with it again soon.
How do I fix squeaky or uneven floorboards?

Squeaks usually come from boards rubbing against each other or against fixings as they move. Screwing them down more firmly or applying a lubricant between boards often solves it. Uneven boards are more of a concern - they can point to subfloor movement or joist problems that need looking at properly. If the issue is spreading or getting worse, don't just patch it.
Can I lay flooring myself or should I hire a professional?

Laminate or click vinyl in a straightforward rectangular room? DIY is doable if you're handy. Solid hardwood, natural stone, large-format tiles, or anything in a room with tricky angles - get a professional. The materials cost enough that a fitting mistake is expensive to put right, and subfloor prep is the bit most people underestimate.
Can damaged or uneven flooring be a safety hazard?

Yes, genuinely. Raised edges, buckling boards, loose tiles, and soft patches are all trip hazards - particularly for children and older people. Lifting near water sources can also mean there's a damp or drainage issue making things worse underneath. If the same problem keeps coming back despite fixes, it needs a proper assessment rather than another patch.
What subfloor preparation is needed before new flooring is laid?

The subfloor needs to be clean, dry, flat, and solid - this matters more than most people realise. Even small dips or bumps can cause laminate, tile, or vinyl to crack, creak, or lift over time. In older homes you might need to secure or replace existing floorboards, and moisture should always be checked before laying wood or engineered flooring over concrete. A good installer will assess the subfloor before quoting, not after.
What type of flooring is best for kitchens and bathrooms?

Both rooms need something water-resistant. In kitchens, luxury vinyl tile (LVT) is currently the go-to - fully waterproof, warmer underfoot than tile, and available in loads of finishes.
Porcelain tile is excellent if you like a harder, easy-to-clean surface. In bathrooms, the same options work but slip resistance becomes more important - particularly around the shower or bath.
Avoid regular laminate and solid wood in bathrooms, and only use properly sealed engineered wood in kitchens. Factor in underfloor heating compatibility early if that's something you want.
How do I choose between laminate and hardwood flooring?

Hardwood is the real thing - solid timber that can be sanded and refinished multiple times, so it can genuinely last generations.
The downsides: it reacts to moisture and moves with the seasons. Laminate is more resistant to scratches and damp, cheaper, and easier to fit - but once it's worn, it's worn. You can't refinish it.
Engineered wood is a solid middle ground - real wood veneer on a stable plywood core that handles moisture and underfloor heating better than solid hardwood. If longevity matters and you're happy to invest, hardwood or engineered wood is worth it. If you want a good-looking, practical floor at lower cost, quality laminate is absolutely fine.

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