Looking for a better deal on your insurance? Get a quote
Become a registered trader - Join us



Carpentry & Joinery

Tips and advice on bespoke woodwork, fitted furniture, doors, staircases and interior joinery.

Carpentry & Joinery

How To Hang a Door

Want to know how to hang a door? Follow our step by step instructions:

Want to know how to hang a door? Follow our step by step instructions:

  1. Get your tools.
  2. Prepare the frame.
  3. Line up the door to the frame.
  4. Mark your hinges & chop them out.
  5. Trim the bottom.
  6. Fit the door.

How to hang a door: get your tools

The first task in hanging your door is to get the right tools. For a normal swinging door, you will need: a sharp pencil; a tape measure; a lump hammer; chisels (one 10mm one and one 18 or 24mm one); cordless drill; wood drill bits; screwdriver bits; a plane; a saddle and block ( to hold the door firm while you are preparing the hinge). Oh, and a door.

How to hang a door: prepare your frame

First you need to decide which way around your door will go. If it is a panelled door, the longer panels should go at the bottom and the shorter ones at the top. Doors usually open into a room, and use the light switch as a clue: you don’t want the light switch to be covered by the door as it opens. Once you have worked out which way to hang your door, you are ready to proceed.

How to hang a door: line up the door and frame

Assuming your door frame is level, give it a once-over to check there is nothing obstructing the frame, particularly on the side where your hinges will go. If you are using a hollow door, check your door for writing on the top edge, to find out where the lock block is (this is a solid block in the door that enables you to fix a lock and handle). Then place your door in the frame, with the lock block on the opposite side to the hinges (where the handle will be). Use a spacer, wedge or piece of card to wedge your door at the bottom, leaving a 3mm gap.

How to hang a door: mark your hinges and cut them out

If you are hanging a new door in a new frame, you will need to mark both door and frame for hinges. Measure 150mm down from the top and 230mm up from the bottom to show the upper edge of the top hinge and lower edge of the bottom. If you have three hinges, mark a pair of lines to show the placement of the middle hinge.

For new doors and frames: carefully screw the hinges to the door and hang the door in the frame (this is temporary). Draw around the hinges in both frame and door with a Stanley knife. Unscrew the hinges again and, using your chisels, you want to cut away the wood in those area, so your hinges fit snugly within the wood, enabling your door to close properly.

How to hang a door: trim the bottom

Use your plane (or a circular saw, if you need to remove a lot) to pare down the bottom of the door so that it opens easily over the carpet. Sand off any uneven edges and pencil lines.

How to hang a door: fit the door!

Screw the hinges into the gaps you made in the door, making sure they are securely fitted. Then lift your door into the frame and screw one screw on each hinge. Carefully test the door: if it works perfectly, screw in the remaining screws. If it needs a little tweaking with regard to position, hinge depth, or distance from the floor, simply unscrew the temporary screws and make minor adjustments until you are happy.

Like any DIY project, learning how to fix a door can seem daunting at first, but the more you try it, the easier it will become!

Looking for more carpentry & joinery advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common carpentry & joinery questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • What types of carpentry work should never be attempted as a DIY project?

    Anything structural - staircases, roof timbers, load-bearing walls, lintels. And anything that needs to meet Building Regulations, like fire doors or stair balustrading.

    Getting structural carpentry wrong isn't just a cosmetic problem - it can affect how safe your home is. Worth paying for a professional who knows what they're doing.

  • Can a carpenter fix a door that won't close properly?

    Yes, and it's a very common call-out. Doors that stick, drop, or won't latch are usually down to one of three things: swelling from moisture, hinges that have worked loose, or the frame moving slightly as the building settles.

    Most of the time it's a straightforward fix. If several doors in the house are playing up at once, it might point to something structural - worth flagging when you get someone in.

  • Do I need a professional to install a staircase or banister?

    Yes. Staircase and banister installation has to meet Part K of the Building Regulations - covering handrail height, baluster spacing, and stair pitch.

    A badly installed staircase or banister is a real safety risk. A qualified carpenter or joiner will make sure it's both structurally sound and compliant.

  • How do I know if a wooden window frame needs repairing or replacing?

    Repair is usually still an option if the frame is structurally sound (no soft or spongy patches when you press it), the rot is only on the surface or in a small section, and the joints are still tight. Surface rot can often be cut back, hardened, and filled with epoxy filler - a good carpenter can make it look like new.

    If the rot goes deep, the frame is badly warped, or the joints have failed, replacement is the more cost-effective route.

  • What causes wooden floors or staircases to creak and can it be fixed?

    Creaks come from movement - boards or treads rubbing against each other, against fixings, or against the structure beneath them as they flex underfoot. It often happens as boards expand or contract with changes in humidity.

    In many cases, screwing things down more firmly or applying a lubricant between moving parts sorts it. If the creak covers a wide area or keeps coming back, a carpenter should take a proper look.

  • What are the benefits of bespoke fitted furniture over flat-pack?

    The main one is fit. Bespoke is built exactly to your space - and in older UK homes especially, that matters. Sloping ceilings, alcoves, chimney breasts, walls that aren't quite square - flat-pack units run into all of these and often end up with awkward filler panels and gaps.

    Bespoke joinery is also generally more solidly built and lasts longer. It costs more and takes longer, but for fitted storage in a room with character, it's usually the right investment.

  • Can a carpenter repair rotting timber or structural woodwork?

    Yes - it's a core part of the job. Surface rot can often be cut back, treated, and filled with epoxy filler that can be shaped, sanded, and painted to match the surrounding wood. Deeper rot in structural timber - joists, window sills, roof timbers - usually means partial or full replacement of that section.

    The important thing is also fixing whatever caused the moisture problem in the first place. Repairing the wood without sorting the damp is just delaying the same issue.

Have a question about TrustATrader?

If you have a question in relation to TrustATrader specifically, please check out the TrustATrader FAQs, with separate lists tailored to consumers and tradespeople. Alternatively, get in touch with our team. We're happy to help!