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Plumbing

Find guidance on leaks, pipework, drainage, water pressure and everyday home plumbing issues.

Plumbing

How To: Fit A Toilet - Removing the Old One

When it comes to upgrading your bathroom, your toilet is a good place to start. As a general rule, it is a good idea to get a professional plumber to do the job. However, if you are an avid DIY-er, fitting a toilet (and removing the old one) is probably the lowest-risk job that you can do; you might want to leave the rest to a professional. In this series we look at how you can fit a new toilet, and remove the old one, with no hassle.

When it comes to upgrading your bathroom, your toilet is a good place to start. As a general rule, it is a good idea to get a professional plumber to do the job. However, if you are an avid DIY-er, fitting a toilet (and removing the old one) is probably the lowest-risk job that you can do; you might want to leave the rest to a professional. In this series we look at how you can fit a new toilet, and remove the old one, with no hassle.

If you are simply removing a toilet and replacing it with a new one, you will need:

  • Screwdriver
  • Silicone
  • Wrenches
  • Adjustable pliers
  • Flexi-hose to supply the cistern with cold water. Your existing toilet probably has a flexi-hose, but it is worth buying a new one.

If you are installing a toilet in a new area, the process is a little more complex and it may be a good idea to get a reliable local plumber to quote for the work.

You may need to remove a toilet to replace the flooring, or you might want to replace it. Anything to do with toilets is generally going to be a fairly unpleasant job – you can make it slightly less unpleasant by making sure that you give the toilet a really good clean before you start (and you may want to use gloves, too).

1) Turn the water off

Before you start, you need to make sure that you have got rid of water from the cistern and bowl. Switch the water off at the isolation valve and flush the toilet. With the water off, the cistern won’t refill – flush again if there is any water still in the cistern and use a towel to get rid of the remaining water.

2) Disconnect the water pipe

Use your wrench to undo the flexi-hose feeding water into the cistern. It’s a good idea to hold a tub or towel underneath the pipe in case there is a bit of water left in it.

3) Remove bolts

Remove the bolts that attach your toilet to the floor. If silicone has been used to fix the loo, carefully remove it.

4) Detach the waste pipe

The waste pipe connects to the back of the toilet. Your loo should be fairly loose now – gently work the toilet free of the pipe. Once you have done, cover the exposed waste pipe with a bag and seal it with insulation or gaffer tape to prevent harmful (and smelly) sewer gases.

5) Check and clean

Without your loo, you can see if any flooring, tiling or piping needs to be replaced. You are now ready to fit your new loo! Follow us on Facebook or Twitter for next week’s instalment!

Looking for more plumbing advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common plumbing questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • What should I do if I have a blocked drain or sink?

    Start with a plunger - create a good seal and use firm, steady pressure. For a kitchen sink blocked with grease, bicarbonate of soda followed by vinegar can help. If that's not shifting it, a drain snake reaches further down the pipe. Go easy on chemical drain cleaners as they can damage older pipes and rarely sort the root cause. If the blockage keeps coming back, affects more than one outlet, or you're getting unpleasant smells, call a plumber rather than trying to patch up the problem.

  • How can I tell if I have a hidden water leak?

    The most obvious clue is a water bill that's gone up without any change in your usage. Beyond that, listen out for running water when everything's turned off, and watch for damp patches on walls or ceilings nowhere near an obvious water source. A quick self-test is to turn everything off and watch your water meter - if it's still moving, there's a leak somewhere. Tracking down exactly where it is usually needs a specialist detection kit, which a plumber can bring in without having to rip everything up.

  • What should I do if I have a burst pipe?

    Turn off your stopcock straight away - you'll usually find it under the kitchen sink or where the mains water enters the property. Once it's off, open your taps to drain what's left in the system, switch off the boiler if you can do so safely, and mop up any standing water before it reaches electrics or flooring. Then call a plumber. With burst pipes, the faster you act, the less damage you'll be faced with.

  • What is a gas safety certificate and do I need one?

    A Gas Safety Record is issued by a Gas Safe registered engineer after checking that all your gas appliances, flues, and pipework are safe. Landlords in England, Scotland, and Wales are legally required to get one every year and give tenants a copy within 28 days. For homeowners it's not a legal requirement, but getting a check done alongside your annual boiler service is a smart idea, particularly in older properties. Only a Gas Safe registered engineer can carry out the work or issue the certificate - you can check anyone's registration on the Gas Safe Register website.

  • Why is my water pressure low and can a plumber fix it?

    Low pressure usually comes down to one of a handful of things: a stop valve that's not fully open, limescale build-up in older pipes, a failing pressure-reducing valve, or an issue with your water provider's mains supply. In most cases a plumber can sort it - though if the problem is with the mains itself, you'll need to contact your water company first. Either way, don't just live with it - ongoing low pressure can sometimes point to something more serious.

  • How do I know if my boiler needs replacing or just repairing?

    If it's under ten years old and it's one specific fault, a repair usually makes sense. If it's over fifteen, has needed multiple fixes recently, is making strange noises, or your energy bills have crept up for no obvious reason - replacement is probably the better investment. A useful rule of thumb: if the repair would cost more than half the price of a new boiler, it's probably time to replace it.

  • How often should I get my plumbing inspected?

    There's no legal requirement for homeowners, but every two to three years is a sensible habit - especially in older properties or hard water areas where limescale builds up over time. Your annual boiler service covers some of the associated pipework too. And if anything seems off between inspections - odd noises, discoloured water, unexplained damp - don't wait. Get it looked at sooner.

  • Why do my pipes make a banging or knocking noise?

    That banging sound (sometimes called water hammer) usually happens when water flow is suddenly stopped or redirected, sending a pressure wave through the pipes. It's most common after flushing the toilet, shutting a tap sharply, or when a washing machine valve closes. Pipes that aren't properly secured can also knock against walls or joists. It sounds alarming but it's often an easy fix - a plumber can figure out whether it's a pressure issue, a faulty valve, or just some loose pipework.

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