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Landscaping & Gardening

Top tips on all things garden design, including fencing, lawn care, planting and outdoor improvements.

Landscaping & Gardening

Grow Your Own: Potatoes Part Two

If you are feeling green fingered as well as noticing the steady rise in potato prices, thanks to the exceptionally wet year that we have just had, growing your own potatoes could be the answer. Last week, we talked through the types of potato and when to plant. This week, as we approach the end of the planting window, we will take you through the planting practicalities, just in time for the Bank Holiday weekend!

If you are feeling green fingered as well as noticing the steady rise in potato prices, thanks to the exceptionally wet year that we have just had, growing your own potatoes could be the answer. Last week, we talked through the types of potato and when to plant. This week, as we approach the end of the planting window, we will take you through the planting practicalities, just in time for the Bank Holiday weekend!

To chit or not to chit?

Chitting is the process of letting your potatoes sprout before you plant them, so that they will crop sooner. Once the potato sprouts are more than 2cm long, you can plant them.

Planting

Avoid planting until you are sure that the late frosts have passed. Choose a sunny spot with well-fertilised soil. There are three options for planting potatoes. If you are digging, you can dig a 15cm trench and arrange the potatoes in it (about 30cm apart for earlies and 37cm apart for main crops) , or you can dig individual holes for each potato and place them carefully in, with the sprouts facing up. If you prefer not to dig in order to preserve the nutritional makeup of your soil, you can simply place the seed potatoes in a shallow trench with a layer of soil on top.

As the potato plants grow, bring in the surrounding soil to cover the stems. Eventually you will have deep ridges in your garden, with potato plants growing out of the peaks.

Weeding

Potato plants need plenty of light, so make sure that you are vigilant with weeding in the early days so that the vulnerable young plants don’t have to compete.

Watering

Potatoes need lots of water, so make sure that you keep the soil well saturated – even during wet weather.

Harvesting

Generally, your crop is ready when the plant starts to look a little bit sad. However, if you are not sure, there is no harm in gently pushing away the soil to check the size of your potatoes. If they are not big enough, simply cover them again and wait!

No space? No problem!

Potatoes love depth but they don’t take up a huge amount of space. If you have a small garden or limited space for planting out, it is possible to grow potatoes in growing bags or large pots. Choose a deep pot or bag and add around 15cm of fertile soil or peat-free compost to the bottom. If you are not sure what compost is best, ask for advice at your local garden centre. Place the potatoes on top of the compost, sprinkle with a little more compost and wait until you see shoots. Every time the shoot is exposed, add more compost until the plant is mature and the pot is full.

With some hard work, a little luck and a lot of patience you will be able to produce delicious, fresh produce in your garden. Getting started can be the difficult bit; a gardener can help to get you on the right track. For more advice, follow Trust A Trader on Facebook or X.

Looking for more landscaping & gardening advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common landscaping & gardening questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • Do I need a professional to design and landscape my garden?

    For simple stuff - planting, basic lawn care, a few raised beds - you can often manage it yourself. For anything involving hard landscaping, drainage, retaining walls, or changing ground levels, get a professional involved.

    Badly built retaining walls and poor drainage cause expensive problems. A landscaper will also know which materials will actually work for your soil and conditions.

  • What is the difference between a landscaper and a gardener?

    A gardener looks after your garden on an ongoing basis - mowing, pruning, planting, general upkeep. A landscaper creates the garden in the first place - patios, paths, fencing, decking, drainage, planting schemes, the whole structure. Some people do both, but they're distinct skill sets.

    If you want the garden transformed rather than maintained, a landscaper is who you need.

  • How do I get rid of an overgrown garden?

    It's often more work than it looks. Beyond cutting things back, there may be significant root systems to clear, possibly invasive species to deal with (Japanese knotweed needs specialist handling), and ground prep before any replanting can happen.

    For anything seriously overgrown, professional clearance is going to be faster, more thorough, and safer than tackling it yourself.

  • What time of year is best for garden landscaping work?

    Hard landscaping - patios, paths, decking, fencing - can happen most of the year, though very wet or frozen ground causes delays. Planting is best in spring or autumn when things establish more easily.

    If you're planning something big, book a landscaper in late winter for spring work - good ones fill up fast once the season gets going.

  • What should I do if I have Japanese knotweed in my garden?

    Take it seriously. It can damage buildings and hard surfaces, and some mortgage lenders won't lend on properties where it's present and unmanaged. You're not legally required to remove it as long as it stays within your boundary, but you are responsible for stopping it from spreading to neighbouring land.

    It needs specialist treatment - either chemical treatment over multiple growing seasons, or excavation and licensed disposal. Don't compost it or put it in your general garden waste.

  • What are the benefits of artificial grass?

    The obvious one: no mowing. It stays looking decent all year and doesn't turn to mud in winter, which is a real plus for households with kids or dogs. Modern artificial grass is much more realistic than it used to be and holds its colour well. Worth knowing though: it gets noticeably hot in direct sun, needs occasional brushing, and is made from plastic that can't currently be recycled at end of life.

    It's a great fit for a low-maintenance, practical space - less so if the environmental benefits of a real lawn matter to you.

  • How can I make my garden low-maintenance?

    Cut down the amount of lawn first - it needs more regular attention than almost anything else. Swapping sections for hard landscaping or planted beds with ground-cover plants makes a real difference.

    Pick plants that suit your soil and aspect - ones that are happy where they are will largely look after themselves once established.

    A thick bark mulch layer keeps weeds down and holds moisture. A drip irrigation system on a timer removes another regular task. A good landscaper can design a scheme specifically around low maintenance rather than just what looks attractive.

  • Do I need planning permission for decking, a pergola, or a garden room?

    Decking is usually fine under Permitted Development as long as it's no more than 30cm above ground and doesn't cover more than half the garden. Open pergolas are generally okay - but start enclosing them with a roof and sides and they get treated differently.

    Garden rooms are classed as outbuildings: permitted if single-storey, within size limits, not used as living accommodation, and set back properly from boundaries. Listed buildings are a different matter - any structure nearby needs listed building consent. If you're not sure, a quick inquiry to your local planning authority will give you a clear answer before you spend anything.

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