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Heating

Advice on boilers, radiators, central heating systems and keeping your home warm and energy efficient.

Heating

Unused Chimneys Part Two: Blocking Your Unused Chimney

In our last post, we covered the key reasons why it’s wise to block an unused chimney, from cutting heat loss to keeping out unwanted guests. But how exactly do you go about doing it safely and effectively? There are a few options, depending on your budget, the condition of the chimney, and whether you'd like the option to reopen it in the future.

In our last post, we covered the key reasons why it’s wise to block an unused chimney, from cutting heat loss to keeping out unwanted guests. But how exactly do you go about doing it safely and effectively? There are a few options, depending on your budget, the condition of the chimney, and whether you'd like the option to reopen it in the future.

Here’s a guide to the most common methods used to block an unused chimney – including some important dos and don’ts.

Chimney Balloon (Chimney Pillow) or Chimney Draught Excluder

Best for: Temporary or semi-permanent draught-proofing

Cost: Low (£15–£30)

Chimney balloons or pillows are one of the easiest and cheapest ways to block a chimney. Made of durable plastic or rubber, they’re inserted into the flue and inflated to create a seal that stops draughts and debris from entering. Many UK homeowners choose this option because it's simple to install yourself and easy to remove if needed.

An alternative to this is a draught excluder or sheep, which works in a similar way but is made from breathable, natural materials such as wool, thereby allowing some ventilation.

DO leave a small tag or string hanging down into the fireplace so you can retrieve it easily later. DON’T install too close to the chimney opening – allow some airflow to avoid condensation and damp build-up.

Chimney Cap (Top Cap or Cowl)

Best for: Preventing rain and animals entering from above

Cost: Moderate (£30–£100 + fitting)

A chimney cap (also called a cowl or rain guard) is fitted at the top of the chimney pot to stop rain, birds, and debris from getting in, while still allowing some airflow. This is especially important in the UK, where rain and nesting birds are common.

It’s recommended that you get a professional roofer or chimney specialist to fit one safely, especially if access is tricky.

Permanent Blocking

Best for: Long-term disuse or chimney removal

Cost: Higher (typically £200–£600)

For a more permanent solution, you can have the flue sealed off by a professional. This might include bricking up the fireplace opening and installing an air brick or vent to allow airflow. The top of the chimney may also be capped and pointed to prevent weather damage.

This is the most durable option and can significantly reduce maintenance, but it requires professional installation to avoid moisture issues or structural problems.

DON’T block without ventilation: a common mistake is sealing off a chimney entirely without leaving any airflow. Chimneys, even when unused, help your home "breathe". Without some ventilation, you risk damp patches and stale air. Always allow a small vent or choose a breathable draught excluder to keep things balanced.

There are a range of options to suit different budgets and needs; if in doubt, consult a local chimney sweep or roofer – they’ll be able to assess the condition of your chimney and recommend the safest and most effective way to block it. For more guidance, follow us on Facebook or X.

Looking for more heating advice?

Find clear, practical answers to common heating questions, helping homeowners understand everyday issues, know what checks they can carry out safely, and when it is best to contact a qualified professional.

  • What is the difference between a combi boiler and a system boiler?

    A combi heats water straight from the mains on demand - no cylinder needed, which makes it compact and ideal for smaller homes or flats. A system boiler works with a hot water cylinder, storing a ready supply that can serve multiple taps or showers at once without the pressure dropping - better for larger homes with more bathrooms. There's also the conventional boiler, which needs both a cylinder and a cold water tank in the loft - common in older properties. A heating engineer can help you figure out which suits your home best.

  • Is an air source heat pump right for my home?

    Heat pumps pull warmth from the outside air (even when it's cold) and use it to heat your home and hot water. They work best in well-insulated homes, ideally with underfloor heating or larger radiators that work well at lower temperatures. In draughty or poorly insulated properties, the benefits are more limited. The Boiler Upgrade Scheme currently offers a grant of up to £7,500 towards installation, so it's worth getting a professional assessment to see whether your home is a good fit before committing.

  • How often should a boiler be serviced?

    Once a year, by a Gas Safe registered engineer. It keeps the boiler running safely, catches small issues before they become expensive, and is usually a condition of the manufacturer's warranty. Some home insurance policies require proof of regular servicing too. If you're not sure when yours was last done, book one before winter - better to find out before you're sitting in a cold house!

  • Why is my radiator cold at the top but warm at the bottom?

    This issue is almost always trapped air. Bleeding the radiator - using a radiator key to release the air - usually sorts it, and it's one of the few heating jobs you can safely do yourself. If bleeding it doesn't work, or if several radiators are having the same problem, it might be a pressure or pump issue. Worth getting a heating engineer in to have a look.

  • What are the signs my boiler needs replacing?

    Keep an eye out for: frequent breakdowns, energy bills going up without using more heat, unusual noises (banging, kettling, or whistling), a flame that's yellow or orange instead of blue, and any visible leaks or rust around the unit. If your boiler is over fifteen years old and ticking any of those boxes, replacing it is usually the more economical choice - modern boilers are significantly more efficient.

  • Is underfloor heating worth it and do I need a professional to install it?

    For a new build or a big renovation, underfloor heating is often a great investment - it heats rooms more evenly than radiators and can be more efficient, especially alongside a heat pump. Retrofitting in an existing home is more of a job, and how worthwhile it is depends on your floor types and how much disruption you're happy to deal with. Either way - wet or electric - it has to be installed by a qualified professional.

  • Why does my boiler keep losing pressure?

    Some pressure drop over time is normal, but if you're topping it up regularly there's usually a cause: a small leak in the system (which isn't always easy to spot), a pressure relief valve that's releasing water, or air in the system after bleeding radiators. Topping it up via the filling loop is fine as a short-term fix, but if you're doing it more than a couple of times a year, it's worth getting an engineer to look into why it keeps happening.

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